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Sourdough guide

Sourdough Bagels: Five Recipes Compared by the Numbers

By Bakers Percent editorial10 min readLast updated Researched guide, AI-assisted (how we make these)

On this page
  1. The five formulas side by side
  2. How much dough per bagel?
  3. Five schedules compared
  4. Where the sources disagree: boiling cold bagels
  5. The boil
  6. Baking
  7. Troubleshooting
  8. FAQ

How this guide was made: it is a researched guide compiled from the published recipes listed at the end of this page. We converted each one to baker's percentages on the same basis and lined up their schedules, boil times and oven settings; we don't claim to have made these bagels. Every number is attributed so you can check it.

Read five sourdough bagel recipes and they seem to disagree on everything: boil for 30 seconds or a full minute, bake at 400°F or 500°F, finish in one day or spread the work over three. Their doughs, though, are almost the same. Once the starter is counted, every one of them sits within two points of 55% hydration. The real choices are about timing, the boil and the oven.

Quick answers

  • Hydration: about 54–57% once the starter's water is counted [1][2][3][4][5], much stiffer than the 62–71% doughs in our pizza dough comparison.
  • Dough per bagel: 115–144 g. King Arthur uses about 130 g for a 4-inch bagel [1]; The Perfect Loaf uses 125 g [2].
  • Schedule: a single long day (8–10 hours, Good Things Baking [5]) up to three days with a cold night for the shaped bagels (The Perfect Loaf [2], Grant Bakes [4]).
  • Boil: 30–60 seconds a side [1][2][3][4][5]. A longer boil gives a thicker, chewier crust [2][3][5].
  • Oven: 400–500°F, depending on the recipe [1][2][3][4][5].
  • Done: deep golden brown. King Arthur gives 210°F in the center [1].

The five formulas side by side

These are baker's percentages, with each ingredient as a share of the total flour (100%). We counted the flour and water inside each starter, treating it as equal weights of flour and water (100% hydration). Grant Bakes [4] and The Perfect Loaf [2] state that hydration for their starters; for the other three it is our assumption. Sweeteners are listed as a share of flour; their small water content isn't counted. Our hydration calculator runs the same arithmetic, and baker's percentages, explained shows the method.

Recipe Total flour Hydration Salt Sweetener Flour in starter (% of total) Bagels × weight Dough weight
King Arthur Baking [1] 954 g bread flour 56.5% 1.9% honey 6.6% 12% 12 × about 130 g ~1,573 g
The Perfect Loaf [2] 964 g high-protein flour 55% 1.9% sugar 3% + barley malt syrup 3% + diastatic malt 0.75% 12% (stiff levain) 12 × 125 g 1,600 g
The Clever Carrot [3] 575 g bread flour 56.5% 1.6% sugar 4.2% 13% 8 × about 115 g ~933 g
Grant Bakes [4] 500 g bread flour 55% 2.0% honey 4% 10% 6 × about 134 g ~805 g
Good Things Baking [5] 519 g bread flour 54.5% 2.9% brown sugar 9.6% 22% 6 pieces (~144 g each by our math) ~866 g

Figures are our arithmetic from each recipe's published gram weights (script: research/pillars5/formulas.py), except The Perfect Loaf, which publishes its own baker's percentages; we quote those [2]. Counting only the water and flour in the bowl, without the starter, gives lower numbers, such as 50% for The Clever Carrot and Grant Bakes and about 42% for Good Things Baking. Good Things Baking asks you to weigh the dough and divide by six rather than giving a piece weight [5].

What the numbers show:

  • Bagel dough is stiff on purpose. The Clever Carrot warns that the mixed dough feels very stiff and dry, and says that's normal for a low-hydration dough [3]. The Perfect Loaf calls its dough firm enough that a home stand mixer may struggle, and suggests finishing by hand if needed, folding and pushing the dough away for 8–10 minutes [2].
  • High-protein flour is the default. The Perfect Loaf and Grant Bakes both point to white flour of about 13% protein for chew [2][4]. The Clever Carrot says bread flour is best but reports success with all-purpose flour (11.7% protein) in a pinch [3].
  • Every recipe adds a little sweetener. Honey, sugar, brown sugar or barley malt syrup run from 4% to almost 10% of the flour [1][3][4][5]; The Perfect Loaf combines sugar, malt syrup and diastatic malt [2]. Grant Bakes notes barley malt syrup is traditional for New York bagels and honey for Montreal, and says sugar, brown sugar or molasses can replace the honey one for one [4]. The Clever Carrot adds that its sugar is for balanced flavor and the bagels don't taste sweet [3].
  • Starter amount varies more than anything else. The flour in the starter ranges from 10% (Grant Bakes) to 22% (Good Things Baking) of the total [4][5], so rise times aren't interchangeable between recipes.
  • Using a different starter? The Perfect Loaf's levain is stiff (half as much water as flour). Asked about switching to a 100% hydration starter, Maurizio Leo said it works if you hold back about 10–20 g of the mixing water and expect fermentation to run a little faster [2].

How much dough per bagel?

Recipe Dough per bagel Notes
The Clever Carrot [3] about 115 g 8 bagels
The Perfect Loaf [2] 125 g 12 bagels; the formula is scaled to 1,600 g so there's a little spare
King Arthur Baking [1] about 130 g 12 bagels, described as 4-inch
Grant Bakes [4] about 134 g 6 bagels
Good Things Baking [5] weigh the dough, divide by 6 6 large bagels

To make a different number, multiply your bagel weight by the count, then scale every ingredient by your total divided by the recipe's dough weight. Whatever the size, all five recipes agree on one shaping point: make the hole bigger than looks right, because it closes up as the bagel proofs and bakes [1][3][4][5]. King Arthur stretches it to 2–2½ inches [1]; The Clever Carrot aims for about the size of a walnut [3].

Two shaping methods appear. Four recipes poke a hole through a ball of dough and stretch it into a ring [1][3][4][5]. The Perfect Loaf rolls each piece into a rope about 12 inches long, wraps it around the hand and rolls the overlapping ends together to seal [2]. Grant Bakes calls the rope method the traditional one but finds the poke method easier for home bakers [4].

Five schedules compared

First rise Shape, then proof Cold rest Bake day
Good Things Baking [5] 4–6 h somewhere warm, until about half again its size 1–2 h, until slightly puffed optional: shaped bagels, overnight up to 24 h same day possible: 8–10 h in all
King Arthur Baking [1] overnight, up to 16 h at 70–75°F; it won't necessarily double about 30 min, until slightly puffy none next day; listed at 13½ h total
The Clever Carrot [3] until doubled: 10–12 h at 68°F, 8–10 h at 70°F 15–20 min after shaping, only a slight puff (the step-by-step notes say 20–30+ min) optional: chill the whole bowl overnight once almost doubled next morning
Grant Bakes [4] 4–6 h, until doubled 2–3 h, until doubled optional: shaped bagels, 8–24 h day 3 morning (starter fed on night 1)
The Perfect Loaf [2] 3 h with one fold at 1½ h; dough at 78°F 2 h at 72–74°F, puffed slightly, not a lot shaped bagels overnight at about 39°F day 3 morning (levain mixed on night 1)

A few patterns stand out:

  • The proof after shaping ranges from 15 minutes to 3 hours. The recipes with a long first rise give a short final proof [1][3]; those with a shorter first rise give a longer one [2][4][5]. Grant Bakes says sourdough bagels need more proofing time than yeasted ones, so they come out light rather than dense and gummy [4].
  • A cold night is mostly for convenience and flavor. Grant Bakes says the fridge step adds flavor and makes the bagels easier to handle when it's time to boil them [4]. The Clever Carrot adds that cold dough is easier to shape, and suggests moving the rise into daytime in hot weather, then chilling the bowl overnight [3].
  • Temperature drives the clock. The Clever Carrot uses warm water (85–95°F) in winter and cool water (55–60°F) in summer to steer the rise [3]. For more on timing by temperature, see our bulk fermentation guide and the water-temperature calculator.

Where the sources disagree: boiling cold bagels

The Perfect Loaf boils its bagels straight from the fridge [2], and Grant Bakes takes the cold bagels out and boils them directly [4]. The Clever Carrot works with cold dough too, warning only that chilled bagels may not float right away, so give them a nudge and be patient [3]. Good Things Baking takes the opposite view: let refrigerated bagels come back to room temperature first, or they'll turn out dense with a poor rise [5]. Since the sources split, follow the recipe you're making.

The boil

Recipe Time per side In the water
King Arthur Baking [1] 30 s honey and a little salt (water at least 1¼ in deep)
Good Things Baking [5] 30 s 1 tbsp baking soda in about 12 cups
The Clever Carrot [3] 30 s for a thin crust, up to 1 min for thicker and chewier honey or barley malt syrup
The Perfect Loaf [2] about 40 s, at a low boil nothing added in this New York-style recipe
Grant Bakes [4] 1 min about 20 g honey in 2–3 quarts

Why boil at all? The Perfect Loaf explains that boiling gelatinizes starch on the surface, which adds chew and shine, and that a longer boil makes a thicker, chewier crust, up to the point where the dough starts to break down [2]. The Clever Carrot says the boil sets the crust early so the bagel doesn't rise like bread, and it helps toppings stick [3]. Good Things Baking adds that a longer boil makes a denser bagel with less oven rise [5].

What goes in the water is a matter of style. The Clever Carrot credits honey or barley malt syrup with golden color and flavor [3], and Grant Bakes says the honey helps a shiny, golden exterior [4]. The Perfect Loaf reports that in its own comparison the syrup didn't add shine, so its New York-style bagels boil in plain water [2].

Boil 2–3 at a time so the pot isn't crowded [1][3][4], in water deep enough for the bagels to float without touching the bottom [2][4].

Baking

Recipe Oven Time Extras
Good Things Baking [5] 400°F 18–20 min egg-white wash
The Clever Carrot [3] 425°F, center rack 20–25 min flip them for the last 1–2 min to finish the bottoms
Grant Bakes [4] 450°F, preheated 30 min; stone or steel optional 20 min none
King Arthur Baking [1] 475°F, two racks 25–28 min rotate pans halfway; about 210°F inside when done
The Perfect Loaf [2] 475°F convection or 500°F without, on a stone or steel 20 min in total steam for the first 10 min, then 450°F for the last 5
  • Toppings go on while the bagels are still wet from the boil; once dry, they won't stick [3][4]. The Clever Carrot suggests an egg wash for extra hold [3]; Good Things Baking brushes on egg white before the seasoning [5].
  • Stop sticking before it starts. Spray parchment lightly [3], or dust the proofing tray with cornmeal or semolina [2][4][5]. King Arthur notes that most parchment is rated below 500°F and its edges begin to char between 450°F and 500°F, so trim the excess [1].
  • Let them cool. Good Things Baking says cutting before they've cooled can leave the inside gummy [5].
  • Storage: King Arthur keeps them wrapped on the counter for several days [1]; The Clever Carrot says up to 2 days in a plastic bag. Both freeze for longer keeping, up to 3 months by The Clever Carrot's count [1][3].

Troubleshooting

Problem What the sources suggest
Bagels came out tough Usually too long a boil or too long a bake [2].
Dense or gummy inside Under-proofed [2][4]; boiling too long [5]; or cutting them hot [5]. Good Things Baking also blames boiling them cold [5], though two recipes boil straight from the fridge [2][4].
The hole closed up Make it larger than you think; it shrinks during proofing and baking [1][3][4][5].
Dough fights back while shaping Rest that piece for 5–10 minutes, then finish stretching [5].
Dough too stiff to knead Normal for this dough [3]. Go easy on a home stand mixer and finish by hand [2].
Toppings fall off Dip while the bagels are still wet [3][4], or brush on an egg wash first [3].
Pale crust The Clever Carrot credits malt syrup or honey in the water with golden color [3]; King Arthur bakes until deep golden brown and firm [1].
Bagels stick to the tray Grease the parchment [3], or use cornmeal or semolina [2][4][5].
Bagels don't float in the pot Common with cold dough. Nudge them and wait [3].

A slow rise usually traces back to the starter or a cool kitchen. Our starter guide shows what ready-to-use starter looks like.

FAQ

What hydration is sourdough bagel dough? Five published recipes land at about 54–57% once the starter is counted [1][2][3][4][5]. That's why the dough feels so stiff.

How long should I boil sourdough bagels? 30 seconds a side in three recipes [1][3][5], about 40 seconds in one [2], and a minute in another [4]. Longer gives a thicker, chewier crust [2][3].

Do I need barley malt syrup? No. Honey, sugar or brown sugar all appear in these recipes [1][3][4][5], and Grant Bakes says they swap one for one [4]. The Perfect Loaf uses barley malt syrup in the dough [2].

Can I make sourdough bagels in one day? Yes. Good Things Baking's same-day route takes 8–10 hours in all, with about an hour of hands-on time [5].

Can I refrigerate shaped bagels overnight? Yes: up to 24 hours [5], or 8–24 hours [4]. The Perfect Loaf proofs its shaped bagels for 2 hours, then chills them overnight [2].

How do I know when they're done? Deep golden brown and firm; King Arthur adds 210°F in the center [1].

How much dough is one bagel? About 115–134 g in the recipes that give a weight [1][2][3][4].

Sources (checked 2026-10-18)

  1. King Arthur Baking (David Turner), "Sourdough Bagels" (updated 2026-05-22): https://www.kingarthurbaking.com/recipes/sourdough-bagels-recipe
  2. The Perfect Loaf (Maurizio Leo), "Sourdough Bagel (New York Style)" (updated 2026-02-26), including the author's replies in the comments: https://www.theperfectloaf.com/sourdough-bagel/
  3. The Clever Carrot (Emilie Raffa), "Best Sourdough Bagels (Soft, Chewy, Easy!)" (updated 2026-02-02): https://www.theclevercarrot.com/2021/06/easy-homemade-sourdough-bagels/
  4. Grant Bakes (Grant Yoder), "Sourdough Bagel Recipe" (updated 2025-02-11): https://grantbakes.com/sourdough-bagel-recipe/
  5. Good Things Baking Co (Rebecca Neidhart), "Easy Sourdough Bagels {with Overnight Option}" (updated 2024-12-03): https://goodthingsbaking.com/sourdough-bagels-recipe/

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